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# 📍Loci: Ashwell - Medieval Graffiti Centre of the World?
- URL: https://www.digest.andymarshall.co/loci-ashwell-medieval-graffiti-capital/
- Published: 2026-01-16T13:48:00.000Z
- Updated: 2026-08-22T17:07:55.000Z
- Description: The medieval inhabitants of Ashwell chose to leave their mark in the material fabric of St. Mary's church.
- Author: Andy  Marshall
- Tags: loci, st. mary ashwell, ashwell, hertfordshire, medieval, graffiti, apotropaic

*Each week I send out a short, fresh reflection from the road – photographs, sketches, and observations from old places that still have something to teach us. What follows is a moment from those travels.* 

---

****HOTSPOTS**

## Ashwell, Hertfordshire

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/Screenshot-2023-07-27-at-13.32.36.png)

Courtesy of Google Maps

### St. Mary's Church.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0106.jpeg)

**The medieval inhabitants of Ashwell chose to leave their mark in the material fabric of St. Mary's church.**

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0038.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0032.jpeg)

Of particular impact are the marks left by the plague survivors of the C14th. One latin script reads:

*“1350 Miserable, wild, distracted 1350 / The dregs of the mob alone survive to witness.”*

Another script records something all too familiar to builders up and down the land:

*“The corners are not jointed correctly—I spit.”*

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0033.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0046.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0034.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0035.jpeg)

The graffiti of St. Mary's, for me, is also significant because it has recorded the rich humus of human interaction throughout the ages, right up until the present day.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0047.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0045.jpeg)

As if to express such significance in built-form the spire of the church reads like a huge exclamation mark in the landscape...

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/dji_fly_20230525_173214_571_1685032150804_aeb.jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/Ashwell-Large-2.jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/Ashwell-Web-1.jpg)

Inhabiting the curtilage adjacent to the spire is a structure that I just couldn't stop photographing...

### The Lychgate

The lychgate is a thing of vernacular beauty. It is of the C15th, and is of crown post construction carried on ties with arched braces. I photographed it from every angle possible. It lured me in.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0065.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0125.jpeg)

What is so appealing about timber framed buildings is the honesty of their construction - not a morsel wasted - everything is structural, has a purpose - and out of that is extruded a kind of sinuous beauty.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0131.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0152.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0153.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0154.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0155.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2026/08/IMG_0156.jpeg)

And then contagion. After taking a side shot of the gate, I notice another building - short and stock and of c.1500

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0151-1.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0118.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0121.jpeg)

and the a communal garden that harbours a delightful view of the village.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0166.jpeg)

I feel a little overwhelmed and seek out a butty, but the building that the butty shop is in doesn't help the vernacular viral load.

---

---

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0101.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0102.jpeg)

I walk outside with my Ploughman's bap and lean against some Flemish bond and spot the most divine pargetting on a building on the same row as the butty shop.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0092.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0093.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0094.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0096.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0097.jpeg)

Buoyed by the vernaculars, I finish my butty and feel as strong as a lion, and it takes some strange quirk of the quantum universe to tell me so.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0110.jpeg)

---

### The remaining buildings of Ashwell - Pure Scroll (no words)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/Screenshot-2023-07-27-at-13.29.03.png)

My Ashwell photo footprint

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0075.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0084.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0080.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0081.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0079.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0087.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0200.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0088.jpeg)

---

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0196.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0100.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0089.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0071.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0105.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0177.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0147.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0172.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0176.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0178.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0180.jpeg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/2e/b6/2eb6d776-18dd-41f1-a2d1-b76fa2d605be/content/images/2023/07/IMG_0187.jpeg)

---

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