Follow me through a full loop around Ilkley and Bolton Abbey - taking in some delightful architectural gems.
And with a saddened heart I take one of the most beautiful routes in the country.
It takes me through a landscape painted by Turner and scripted by Wordsworth. The route can be taken by car (there are some single track lanes) and there are alternative routes on foot.
With Splinter, I'm developing a new type of photography: architectural bikeography. This is slow time - meandering through the landscape and interacting with the buildings that pass by. If I miss something, I can easily stop and turn and take it in. I can talk to others whilst tootling along: "Morning! Love your sash window!" "Thanks! It's original 18th century!"
I absorb so much more on the bike.
"This is slow time - meandering through the landscape and interacting with the buildings that pass by."
🚐🚴♀️ Base Camp Ilkley, Yorkshire.
If I could have a love affair with a place it would be Ilkley. Or would it be Beverley? Find me on the right day and it would be Ilkley. Ilkley is an architecture park.
I park Woody up in the central car park (no height restrictions) and change into my, ahem, lycra. It seems odd to be coming to Ilkley and not visiting my favourite places.
But, if you have time to meander, here are a few of my favourite Ilkley buildings.
The Flying Duck
Yorkshire vernacular at its finest: The Flying Duck in Ilkley has a remarkable history of re-use. Built in 1709 as a farmhouse then a coal merchants, shoemakers, sweetshop, dairy, restaurant and now a pub with its own brewery.
Ilkley Manor House
Just a short walk away from the Flying Duck is Ilkley's C17th Manor House - built on top of a Roman fort. It is a grade I listed building on top of a designated Ancient Monument.
Splinter in front of the remains of the Roman fort behind Ilkley Manor House.
The Manor House has a wonderful selection of archaeological finds. My favourite holds the footprints of a cat and roe deer on a Roman clay brick.
All Saints' Church
Nearby to the Flying Duck pub and Ilkley Manor House is All Saints' church - which houses some hidden gems: Anglo Saxon crosses with remarkably sharp decoration.
On the font is a C17th evil warding serpent head - carved atop the baptismal font cover. A watery symbol set fair to divine the purity of the baptismal water.
The Domestic House.
Ilkley is the place to come and see the historical evolution of the domestic house. From the Arts and Crafts:
To the contemporary:
And, oh yeah, a Lutyens in the guise of Heathcote.
Perhaps, more importantly, Ilkley has my favourite bookshop.
The Grove Bookshop in Ilkley, Yorkshire.
Only people that spend a considerable amount get a textile bag with this bookshop. Whenever I visit I always walk out with one, burgeoning with books - trying to think of an excuse to justify the outlay.
Out on the Ilkley Figure of Eight Loop
I recorded my journey on Komoot. If you want to follow it, you can download the GPX file.
I loved it so much I made a small film for the Digest. Switch your sound up. Enjoy the ride.
Tour Highlights - Pure Scroll (no words)
The River Wharfe
The Local Vernacular
Bolton Abbey and Estate
Members can see a wonderful 360 VR of the landscape around Bolton Abbey by clicking the link below - it really takes you there. (Viewable on any device)
Andy Marshall
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Barden Tower (former hunting lodge)
Barden Bridge (1659)
Cavendish Pavilion - coffee stop
Middleton Moor - hidden gem
I'm slogging it up the hill on the return leg and my bike computer tells me that the hill ahead is rising to 15%. If somebody were to chance a look from the Cavendish Pavilion deep in the valley - they would see an ungainly silhouette of a cyclist criss crossing the camber of the road. I'm not going to get off.
The worst bit of any climb for me is the final rise up onto the flattened heights. So close and yet so far - but this time - there's a vision up ahead - an oasis on the skyline.
It's Back O' Th' Hill Farm (possibly named by the same person that went on to't Ilkley Moor baht' at).
The cafe is set up in the hills overlooking the Wharfe and is situated within the vernaculars of an historic farm. The coffee is to die for and the food looks fab (I didn't have anything to eat but heard the praises of others). There's a small car park opposite.
Andy Marshall
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