St Mary’s, Stow, is a hidden gem within a hidden gem: a minster-sized church in a Lincolnshire village, rich in Anglo-Saxon survivals.

Scratched into the south pier of the chancel arch is possibly England’s earliest depiction of a Viking ship. Some believe it was carved by a Scandinavian trader or marauder who reached Stow via the Trent; others suggest a local - perhaps a child - recording a raid. The Viking interpretation is irresistible because its oars and intricate details suggest knowledge of such vessels.

Look out, too, for a “snot” of once-molten lead, debris associated with a devastating church fire and perhaps a tangible remnant of Viking-age destruction.


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